My parents came to visit my brother and I in London last month for a week. I don’t get to see my parents often, so whenever I do, it’s something that I cherish dearly. We got to see different parts of London, and had a day trip to Cambridge. Naturally, they also spent their own time accordingly when my brother and I were at work. On their last day in town, we went to Unity Diner, a modern vegan restaurant near Whitechapel. I’ve eaten at Unity Diner a few times, and it’s a restaurant that I recommend to everyone. On their website, their core aim is to “use the power of plants to revolutionise public perceptions surrounding vegan foods”. The restaurant not only serves tasty food, but also uses its profits towards animal rescue.
Before we went into the restaurant, my parents had a look at the menu outside. My mom and dad commented on the fact that the menu items resembled their non-vegan counterparts. My mom asked, “If this is a vegan restaurant, why are the food names related to animals?”. This led us to having an interesting discussion about the nomenclature of food, and their associations. Ultimately, I was unable to convince my parents in that moment why that was the case. However, in this short blog, I will try to flesh out this topic, and maybe convince them this time.
Languages, Invasions and Food
The English language is rich in history. Like any other language that has passed through centuries of change, English has adopted words from other places. According to Dictionary.com, 80% of English words are loanwords, or borrowed. This isn’t surprising, as there are many words in the language that come from Latin, German, French and more. For the sake of this article, commonly used loanwords like beef, mutton, pork and poultry, derive from French. The history of this exchange goes back to the Norman conquest of England in 1066. When the Normans took over England, they introduced their language to the English, who eventually adopted the aforementioned words.
Interestingly, when we talk about food, we use words such as roast beef, and not roast cow. The attribution to this goes back to the conquest, and the social dynamic between the Anglo-Saxons and the Normans. The Anglo-Saxons who encountered the live animals, such as cows, retained the word du jour (Old English cū). However, the upper-class normans who encountered these animals as food, used their culinary words instead. And because French gastronomy established dominance at the time, new words emerged. As such, words like beef (Old French boef), pork (porc) and pullet (poulet), became commonplace words for animal-based food.
Carnism
One of the earliest books that I read on veganism is Melanie Joy’s Why We Love Dogs, Eat Pigs and Wear Cows. The book introduces us to a concept that Melanie Joy coins as Carnism. The idea emerges from the words “carn” flesh and “ism” a belief system. As you can tell, this belief system is quite the opposite to veganism. Moreover, it’s the dominant belief system across the globe. Carnism entails that society defines an animal’s worth according to their intrinsic value. Simply put, chicken are food, dogs are pets and cows are clothes.
According to Joy, there are three pillars that support carnism : Denial, Justification and Cognitive Dissonance. In today’s world, our connection, or lack thereof with animals, shapes the way we perceive them. Many people have limited understanding of animals, because they don’t come into contact with them on a daily basis. This is unsurprising because populations shifted from rural to city living in the two last centuries. For a very long time, humans relied on animals for sustenance and survival. And over many generations, this understanding of the world emerged as the status quo.
In today’s world however, we don’t rely on animals for survival. In developed countries especially, people have access to an array of different food items. The process of farming, harvesting, rearing and slaughter, are invisible to us. Additionally, we learn from a young age that we need animals to live, and the ideology continues to thrive. We become ardent supporters of the system, and deniers of its atrocities – even though we wouldn’t commit them ourselves. Ironically, this is somewhat reminiscent to the upper-class Normans who interacted with the final product, rather than the animal.
What’s Vegan Lobster?
Back to the original question, why do vegans use animal food names? I think this has to do with our connection to animal based food. Since many of us see the final product, we remove the living animal from the equation. The food embodies a life of its own, a continuation of our constructed idea of the animal. When we think of burgers and hot dogs, we think of a particular shape. In reality, we can make burgers out of beef, venison, pork etc… The vessel itself doesn’t change if the product is recognisable.
Naturally, if we make a vegan burger, then the aforementioned thought process would follow suit. What about vegan chicken, or vegan salmon? I think that the same logic applies. We are familiar with seeing chicken in specific forms (fried, roasted, shredded). If we recognise the food item based on its looks, then vegan fried chicken isn’t far off. Sure, it’s not real chicken, but does it matter? It’s a recognisable alternative that is accessible to those that enjoy chicken, and not so much the cruelty.
Additionally, it’s important to note that vegans, including myself, didn’t stop eating animals because of taste. This shouldn’t be surprising, as meat products taste delicious. The reason people stop eating meat is because of other factors, like health, ethics or the environment. However, things can be difficult when people switch lifestyles. Adjusting to a new diet and relearning how to eat food comes with its challenges. Having options that are familiar and tasteful allows people to enjoy veganism. I for one enjoy vegan alternatives (in moderation), not because I miss meat, but because it’s different. I will always value whole foods over alternatives, but sometimes you want to treat yourself.
Takeaway
Ultimately, utilising the same appellation for vegan alternatives contributes as a means of identification. The relationship that we have with our food is shaped by factors beyond the animal itself. Food is a transcendental experience that travels across space and time. It’s a universally shared experience that embodies different cultures, tastes and perceptions. Vegan cuisines utilise familiarity in order to embolden plant-based ingredients. This familiarity enables us to connect with our cultures and upbringings, without compromising on our ethics.
We are able to share this experience with vegans and non-vegans alike, inviting intrigue and delight to others. That being said, veganism has also paved the way for niche culinary endeavours, which highlight the flavour of plants. This involves creating unique dishes that focalise taste, and create new perceptions of what plant-based dishes have to offer. In the end, I believe that advances in food science and innovation are advantageous for everyone. The alternatives that are available on the market provide a source of nutrition not just for vegans, but for everyone. And if they can be better for the environment, health and the animals, then I think they’re a net positive, no matter their name.